7/10/10 — Twice in the past week we’ve had delicious meals with pork as the centerpiece. Both a pork tenderloin and a pork loin were marinated and grilled resulting in a satisfying flavor and richness.

A few years ago, we might have been concerned about consuming the high level of fat in the pork, and even felt that having chicken or fish would have been a healthier choice. Today the USDA says “pigs have gone on a diet.” In comparing chicken to pork, information tells us that, “pork is just as lean as the leanest type of chicken — a skinless chicken breast”.

America’s pork producers have improved feeding and breeding practices to deliver the leaner pork products that consumers demand. One USDA analysis reports that saturated fat in pork has dropped 27 percent. However, food editor Ruth Reichl writes, “When the fat was bred out of pigs, the flavor went, too.” This brings us back around to the reasons for marinating and grilling your favorite cut of pork.

In addition to pork chops, possibly the two most popular choices of pork are loin or tenderloin. The loin is a larger, thicker piece of meat. It’s the outer muscle along both sides of the backbone, and can be sold whole or in sections. The tenderloin is found just beneath the loin. It’s smaller, very lean and tender, and slightly more expensive. Both can be prepared in an enormous variety of methods.

The procedure for butterflying a pork loin is easy and clear instructions can be found on several sites on the internet. If you prefer, your butcher will be happy to do it for you. The process shapes the meat into a large flat piece that absorbs a marinade, grills quickly and slices into even serving pieces.

The lime and ginger in the marinade for the Grilled Butterflied Pork Loin (next page) add tangy flavor and tender texture, and are prefect compliments to the pork. Small rounds of the Corinader and Lime Butter increase the taste of herb and lime, and provide an interesting garnish. Both the pork with the marinade and the flavored butter are made ahead of time.

Sauerkraut is the secret ingredient in this cole slaw. It, along with grated apple, is a nice variation on a traditional dish. As it is with all cooking, the better the quality of the ingredients, the better the result. We find that the sauerkraut sold in a bag is much better than the canned version.

Sweet potatoes have always been a classic partner to pork. These grilled sweet potatoes are so easy they hardly need a recipe. They’re a nice change from the Yukon or Irish ones and add color to the plate. For planning purposes, boil them before your company arrives, chill them in the refrigerator and then grill with the pork at the last minute.

Charlie and Betsy Pyne have a wonderful home off Cooneymus Road up on a hill overlooking Block Island Sound. (They’re history buffs — ask them about their visits to every one of the state capitals.) This no-fail chocolate cake is a favorite in Betsy’s family; her brother Peter Merrick shared the recipe with her. She halves the recipe and serves it as one layer frosted with the Butter and Cream Cheese Frosting surrounded with fresh strawberries. “Half the calories,” she says. It’s really delicious — like eating a rich bonbon — and the grand finale to a superb dinner.

Happy Fourth everyone!! Keep on grilling!

Grilled Butterflied Pork Loin

Adapted from Gourmet magazine

1 teaspoon grated lime zest

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon peeled and grated ginger root

3 tablespoons minced fresh coriander leaves

1/3 cup olive oil

2 pounds boneless pork loin, trimmed and butterflied

Salt and coarsely ground pepper to taste

Coriander and lime butter**

In a large shallow dish make a marinade with the lime zest, lime juice, ginger root, coriander, and olive oil. Stir to blend. Set aside.

Pound the pork between sheets of dampened wax paper until it is ½-inch thick. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Add the pork to the dish, turning to coat well with the marinade. Cover and chill in the refrigerator overnight.

Remove pork from the refrigerator and let come to room temperature. Cook on an oiled rack over a hot grill, 10 to 12 minutes on each side, or until a meat thermometer registers 150 to 155 degrees F for slightly pink meat.

Transfer the pork to a cutting board and let it stand for 5 minutes. Slice the pork thin and serve it with slices of the coriander and lime butter.

Serves 4.

** Coriander and Lime Butter

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon finely minced, fresh coriander leaves

1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest

1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley leaves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Measure the butter, coriander, lime zest, lime juice, parsley, pepper and salt into a bowl. Blend well, mashing ingredients together with a fork. Transfer mixture to a sheet of waxed paper and roll the paper around it to make a log. Chill the butter for at least an hour or overnight.

Makes about ¼ cup.

Cole Slaw with Apple and Sauerkraut

1/2 pound sauerkraut, rinsed well and squeezed dry

2 cups shredded cabbage

1 carrot, peeled and shredded

2 scallions, minced

1 tablespoon snipped fresh dill

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley leaves

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 large egg yolks

1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard

Salt and ground pepper

1/2 cup olive oil

1 tart apple with peel

In a large bowl combine the sauerkraut, cabbage, carrot, scallions, dill and parsley. Set aside.

To make the sauce: whisk together the vinegar, egg yolks, mustard, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Slowly add the oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly. Continue to whisk until the sauce is emulsified (creamy like mayonnaise). Grate the apple, with skin, into the dressing, discarding the core.

Add sauce to vegetables. Blend well. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour. Stir well just before serving.

Serves 4.

Grilled Sweet Potatoes

2 or 3 sweet potatoes or yams

Olive oil

Salt and ground pepper

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Thoroughly wash sweet potatoes. Leaving skins on, slice crosswise in ½-inch thick rounds. Cook in boiling water until potatoes are barely tender when pricked with a fork. Remove from water and pat dry with paper towels. Chill in refrigerator 2 to 3 hours. To finish, rub with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill over a hot fire until browned.

Serves 4 to 6.

Peter’s Chocolate Cake

From Betsy Pyne and her brother, Peter Merrick

3 squares unsweetened chocolate

1¾ cups all purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup Crisco

1½ cups sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla

2 eggs

½ cup sour cream (4 ounces)

1 cup cold water

Grease and flour two 8- or 9-inch cake pans. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Slowly melt chocolate in a small pan, stirring. Set aside and let cool. In a small bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda and salt. Set aside.

In an electric mixer beat Crisco about 30 seconds. Add sugar and vanilla, and beat until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time beating one minute for each one. Stir in chocolate and sour cream.

Add flour mixture alternated with the cold water in three different segments, beating on low speed until just combined.

Spoon batter into the two pans and bake 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven and cool 10 minutes. Remove from pans and cool completely. Frost with Butter and Cream Cheese Frosting **.

Makes one two-layer cake.

** Butter and Cream Cheese Frosting

¼ cup (½ stick) butter, softened

1 three-ounce package cream cheese, softened

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups sifted confectioner’s sugar

Place butter, cream cheese and vanilla in a medium-sized bowl. Beat until light and fluffy. Slowly add confectioner’s sugar and mix until smooth and well blended. Spread over the cooled cake.

Makes enough frosting for a two-layer cake.